Autumn/Winter 2020 marked a significant moment for Burberry, a pivotal shift under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci. The collection, unveiled amidst a backdrop of global uncertainty, represented a powerful blend of classic Burberry signatures reimagined for a contemporary audience, alongside a bold exploration of new aesthetics. This analysis delves into the key aspects of the AW20 collection, focusing on the menswear offerings and their intersection with the brand's fragrance landscape, particularly the "Burberry Her" range.
Burberry Signatures for Men: A Reimagining of Heritage
Tisci's AW20 menswear collection for Burberry cleverly navigated the tension between heritage and modernity. The show, itself a spectacle of theatrical staging and carefully curated atmosphere, set the tone for a collection that was both familiar and strikingly fresh. The iconic Burberry check, a cornerstone of the brand's identity, was present but not overwhelming. Instead of being plastered across every garment, it was subtly incorporated, appearing as lining details, accents on outerwear, or cleverly woven into the fabric itself. This restrained use of the check highlighted its enduring power without resorting to cliché.
The collection showcased a masterful understanding of tailoring. Classic silhouettes – trench coats, tailored trousers, and impeccably cut suits – were reinterpreted with a distinctly modern edge. Oversized proportions, relaxed fits, and unexpected layering created a sense of effortless cool, appealing to a younger generation while retaining the sophistication expected from Burberry. The colour palette was largely muted, dominated by earthy tones of beige, brown, and grey, punctuated by flashes of vibrant colour – a strategic application of crimson, deep navy, and emerald green.
A key element of the menswear collection was the exploration of texture. The use of luxurious fabrics like cashmere, wool, and leather was evident throughout. The tactile quality of these materials added another layer of sophistication, enhancing the overall luxurious feel of the garments. This emphasis on texture was particularly noticeable in the outerwear, with richly textured coats and jackets serving as statement pieces within the collection. The use of different weights and weaves of fabric created visual interest and depth, adding to the overall complexity and richness of the collection.
Beyond the classic pieces, Tisci introduced elements that reflected his signature design language. Graphic elements, often incorporating the Burberry logo in a subtly updated form, appeared on sweaters and shirts. These graphic elements weren't jarring; instead, they added a contemporary edge to the more traditional pieces, creating a harmonious blend of old and new. The collection also featured a range of outerwear that pushed the boundaries of traditional designs, with innovative cuts and unexpected details.
The overall effect was a collection that felt both timeless and contemporary, effortlessly blending classic Burberry codes with Tisci's unique vision. It was a collection that resonated with the brand's heritage while simultaneously projecting a forward-looking image, establishing a strong foundation for the future direction of Burberry menswear.
The Interplay of Scent and Style: Burberry Her and the AW20 Aesthetic
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